DSM Dining News + Tasting Notes
First bites at Hugo's, my book launch in Johnston, dining advice, and more.
First Look at Hugo’s Wood-Fired Kitchen
3206 University Ave., Des Moines; (515) 674-2960
Hours: Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
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Normally I do not review restaurants until the place has been open six weeks. So, this is not a review. However, some friends wanted to try Hugo’s Wood-Fired Kitchen the other night. I was skeptical, because honestly, in my experience, most places are not firing on all cylinders the minute they open the door. (Hugo’s just opened May 31.)
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But we had a lovely evening. Standouts included top-notch service—keyed in and personable in ways that truly enhanced everything. The baked feta ($12) was a terrific shared appetizer—great richness and tang in the cheese, and lively contrasts with the almonds, chili oil, and herbs. It’s so nice to find a fish option (that’s not deep-fried) for under $20; the haddock ($18) was a sparkling, colorful dish and featured my favorite summer vegetable (Swiss chard). The portion size was sensible for diners wishing to enjoy a starter beforehand.
I wasn’t on the job, so I didn’t request tastes of everything at the table. However, one dining companion had this to say about her fig and honey pizza ($17).
“I was obsessed with my fig and honey. I’ve had the same thing at Eatery A and loved it there, too, but the walnut halves on this one added depth of flavor and crunch. I have switched to a mostly plant-based diet, and my tastes have changed along with it. I no longer like the greasy, cheesy and meaty pizzas that a lot of Americans prefer. This was a great match for my palate.”
Since I didn’t really taste everything myself, I’ll stop there. A review will come later this summer, but for now, I’m optimistic about Hugo’s!
P.S.: I couldn’t track down a menu online, so I posted one here.
Let’s Meet in Johnston
As I’ve mentioned, my book, “Love Is My Favorite Flavor: A Midwestern Dining Critic Tells All” is being published by the University of Iowa Press in July.
I’ll be doing a few events around town, and I’ll tell you about them in upcoming e-newsletters. However, one that you might want to put on your calendar is the public book launch at the Johnston Library. While this event is free and open to the public, seating is limited. If you’d like to come, please RSVP to reserve your seat.
When: Saturday, July 20, 10:30 a.m.
Where: Johnston Public Library
RSVP: The event is free, but please: reserve your seats.
More details: On the Johnston Library Website.
Program: I will recount some great and not-so-great moments during my 15-year tenure as The Des Moines Register’s restaurant reviewer. I’ll also talk about my extensive experience waiting tables in some iconic Des Moines restaurants—and how these experiences shaped my later work as a food critic.
Books: Signed copies available for purchase. $22 + tax.
Bonus: The library will provide light refreshments.
I look forward to meeting you!
Help a Server (and Fellow Diners) Out
Have you noticed that when dining with a group that’s paying with separate checks, servers often (without asking) distribute the cost of shared appetizers among all parties at the table? The practice is meant to be thoughtful, I’m sure—it’s better than having shared appetizers charged to one person arbitrarily (which happens far too often as well).
A better solution, of course, is for servers to ask at the end of the meal and before the check is presented, “How would you like to take care of the appetizers [bottle of wine, etc.]?”
But that isn’t always going to happen. That’s why I suggest that if you’re ordering an appetizer—and you wish to host it for the table—you be clear to the server: “I’d like to order the rabbit meatballs appetizer, and I’d like you to put that on my tab.”
The people at your table who don’t want to try the rabbit meatballs—and who really don’t want to help you pay for them—will be grateful for your consideration.
P.S.: I’ll tell you all about those rabbit meatballs in an upcoming review.
A Lovely Summer-Night Salad
A freshly made, zippy and herbful Green goddess dressing is a wonderful thing, so when I saw that it was an option last week from Nourished DSM, I snagged one. Owner Beth Jackson changes her menu weekly—and next time I see it, I’ll order it again.
With fresh mozzarella, pickled onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, and a nice selection of greens, it’s a great choice for a main-dish salad platter. I roasted some great boneless, skin-on (yes!) capon thighs (from the Iowa Food Coop), but you could use salmon, steak, lamb chops, burgers—so many things go with this dressing. Shrimp would be divine. Chilled, cooked shrimp on a hot night, even better.
The salad comes with quinoa, but to stretch this one-serving beauty to serve two, I cooked about 1/2 a cup more quinoa (it was plenty…). I tossed the extra quinoa with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper
While I purchased the salad through the Iowa Food Coop, you can also order Jackson’s salads directly through Nourished DSM and pick them up at Moxie Kitchen and Events Center on Wednesdays. Find out how.
The Best Thing I Read This Week from the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative
The Iowa Writers’ Collaborative brings you great journalism from across the state. With 50-plus writers, no one expects you to read or subscribe to them all—but it’s worth subscribing to the Sunday roundup to get a look at what’s been published in the past week.
Recently, IWC member Chris Jones wrote an eye-opening piece on the historical context on the preponderance of white farmers in Iowa.
In it he asks: Can we be blamed for the acts of our ancestors?
“My feeling on this is no,” he writes. “But our actions in the present day deserve great consideration if we expect, or deserve, absolution ... The historical and scientific facts glaringly show we have treated the creation here with far less reverence than those that came before us ... We suffer the consequences of this with polluted drinking water and degraded streams, lakes and other natural resources.”
Check out the full article:
I love everything I’ve ordered from Beth Jackson at NourishedDSM! Such fresh flavors and her salad dressings are unmatched. I didn’t realize her food was available at Iowa Food Co-Op, too.
I like that six week's concept