Café Mir
See Update, below.
NOTE: The review below was written in 2024; unfortunately, a return visit in October 2025 didn’t quite live up to those accolades. The food was still very good, but some service glitches—and a certain indifference toward fixing them—give me pause before offering my wholehearted recommendation.
REVIEW OF CAFE MIR (2024)
How do I know when I’m about to tuck into great meal? The food sparkles with freshness when it hits the table.
How do I know when I’ve had a great meal? I’m elated by a sense of well-being as I practically float out the door.
In between comes much joy, of course.
And it all happened this past weekend at Café Mir.
Who/What/Where?
Café Mir is owned by cousins Nathaniel Frederick and Josh Frederick. Both are from the area, but have lived extensively elsewhere (Josh, the chef, worked as a sommelier in L.A., while Nathaniel has lived all over—Prague, Sicily, Paris, Serbia). The cousins opened the restaurant in 2017, in Fertile, Iowa, population 299; mir is Czech for “peace.”
About 12 minutes north of Clear Lake, Fertile is a one-horse town, with all the hallmarks of a declining farm community—albeit, one that could yet be reborn: the now-closed bank and lumber company share the main street with Cafe Mir, a collectibles shop, a coffeehouse, and post office.
What makes Fertile pleasant (besides Cafe Mir) is the lovely William Rhodes Island Park, which stretches out behind a row of buildings on Main Street. Nestled on an island in the Winnebago river, the lush park offers rushing waters and a view of a former mill-turned-residence. Go early to take a little walk around.
Yes, Fertile might seem like an odd place to open a worldly and contemporary café, but it’s not far from Forest City, Mason City, and Clear Lake. And judging by the full house last Saturday, they seem to be going strong. (BTW: If you’re driving from Des Moines, you’ll want to spend the night nearby; see a few tips, below).
The Look
Charm abounds in the old wood-and-brick structure, with its stamped-tin ceilings and mismatched tableware and chairs. Try to sit in the front room; while the back room has views of the park, it’s also where larger parties sit, which can get noisy. In fact, the whole place grew quite loud at its busiest.
The Food
At Café Mir, it’s all about high-quality seasonal ingredients presented in ways that favor cuisines of sun-splashed climes: think Italy, Spain, Latin America, the Southern Mediterranean. Here’s the menu from my recent visit.
You know, of course, that a fresh-focused, seasonal restaurant like this one will switch up the menu often, right? For example, our joyful and engaged server (the chef’s wife, Katie Frederick), mentioned that it was probably the last weekend for the asparagus dish.
Yet because every dish we tried knocked it out of the park (or at least hit a triple), I’d say the odds that you’ll find something great are greatly in your favor.
Here’s what we had, and loved:
Just when I’d about given up on ever getting a salad that’s been properly dressed to slick-but-dripless perfection, the stunning Greensleeves Salad ($13) came my way. It had just the right mix of everything, including both spicy and mild greens, bright, paper-thin radishes, and a dusting of pecorino cheese. The sunflower seeds—broken into delicate bits—added lovely texture without hammering the point home. The salad is shareable, by the way.
For our main course, we ordered the tenderized chicken thighs ($19) and the King salmon ($29). The thighs arrived perfectly grilled and generously topped with a vibrant cilantro pesto and a vigorous mojo de ajo. The dish fascinated with subtle, now-you-taste-it/now-you-don’t heat, a result of the artfully balanced herbs and spices.
Crisp-seared on the outside, glistening on the inside, the King salmon came strewn with an abundance of ingredients: caper-Dijon aioli, arugula, fresh artichoke hearts, roasted red pepper, dill, pickled jalapeño, and sesame. Honestly, I thought that was about two ingredients too many, but each was top-notch in itself, including the robust and buttery salmon.
The side dishes were equally engaging: nettle-ramp pesto, lemon, and a wealth of fresh dill added the bright, grassy-fresh flavors of spring to the earthy, wood-fired asparagus, and the creamy burrata made it all even better. And if they have potato latkes on the menu, snag ’em—with their crackly-crisp, golden-brown exterior and tender, fluffy interior, they’re everything you want in these hearty and traditional fritters.
It seemed like a lot of food, but surprisingly, we polished off nearly every bite. And you know what? We practically floated out the door—sated but not weighed down in the least. This speaks to the quality of the ingredients and a certain precision at work in the kitchen.
And here’s a kicker: According to Katie Frederick, her chef-husband Josh hadn’t really cheffed anywhere else before opening the restaurant. I’m guessing his stint in California restaurants informed his expertise and standards, though Katie also mentioned (with a smile) that “he’s an annoyingly quick learner.”
Or perhaps he’s simply a natural.
If You Go
So, is Café Mir worth a two-hour trip from Des Moines? For me, it most certainly is. I’ll be back. The food is on par with The Webster in Iowa City (though The Webster, of course, has a more cosmopolitan feel). In fact, with its energetic, fresh, and precise food served in a charmingly humble rural-Iowa dwelling, Cafe Mir more closely reminds me of the renown Lincoln Cafe, Matt Stiegerwald’s once-upon-a-time venue in Mount Vernon. Which is to say, if you enjoyed either of those places, I’m pretty sure you’ll enjoy Café Mir.
Find it:
113 W Main St.; Fertile, Iowa
Reservations strongly recommended: (641) 481-4900.
Summer hours: Thursday, Friday, Saturday evenings.
Plus tacos on Tuesdays (not reviewed here)
Be advised: Get reservations; this place fills up in summer.
If you’re coming from Des Moines. I suggest staying overnight or, better yet, staying the weekend. Some ideas:
Mason City (about 25 minutes from Fertile): I’ve stayed in Mason City’s Historic Park Inn Hotel and thoroughly enjoyed the Frank Lloyd Wright architecture (though it’s been about five years since I last overnighted there. It’s worth spending a second night in Mason City to visit the the 100-plus-year-old Northwestern Steak House (I’ll be writing about that in coming weeks). Note that reservations at the Northwestern can be tricky—you have to call them after 4:30 on the very day you want to dine. I got a busy signal the first few tries, but the rigmarole was worth it.
Clear Lake (less than 15 minutes from Fertile): For tips on what to do/where to stay in Clear Lake, read this great story that Jane Austin Miller wrote for me last summer. She’s an expert—she owns a vacation home there.
My One and Only Ask Today
Would you consider forwarding this newsletter to a friend—and perhaps telling them how much you’re enjoying Wini’s Food Stories? I’ve learned that the best way to grow a Substack column is through email word-of-mouth. I’d be honored if you’d consider doing this. Thank you!
Agreed Jane! Now the secrets out. We too have a lake home in Clear Lake and frequent Cafe Mir all summer long (and in the off season whenever they are open). We love the Bohemian vibe, the wonderful thoughtful staff and of course the fabulous food. Never turn down the Greensleeeves salad whenever it’s on the menu. It’s definitely worth the trip to this lovely little hamlet!
Always love to hear about a great place in a small town. Thanks for the heads up and of course the kind praise for my old haunt.
Why can’t Mir be closer?!😀