DSM Dining News + Tasting Notes

First bites at Hugo's, my book launch in Johnston, dining advice, and more.

First Look at Hugo’s Wood-Fired Kitchen

3206 University Ave., Des Moines; (515) 674-2960‬
Hours: Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Haddock and Fig + Honey Pizza at Hugo's

Normally I do not review restaurants until the place has been open six weeks. So, this is not a review. However, some friends wanted to try Hugo’s Wood-Fired Kitchen the other night. I was skeptical, because honestly, in my experience, most places are not firing on all cylinders the minute they open the door. (Hugo’s just opened May 31.)

No, it wasn’t this slow the night we went to Hugo’s! Rather, I snapped this photo on opening day, in the mid-afternoon, when I stopped by to have a word with chef-owner Lynn Pritchard, who also owns Table 128.

But we had a lovely evening. Standouts included top-notch service—keyed in and personable in ways that truly enhanced everything. The baked feta ($12) was a terrific shared appetizer—great richness and tang in the cheese, and live…