Five Things I Like Most about Mitzi's + Some Not-Great DSM Dining News + The Results of My Tipping Survey
This under-the-radar Valley Junction spot is exactly my kind of place for that casual, any-night bite. Here's my review, plus some difficult news. And, the results of my tipping survey.
Greetings, readers! I’m glad you’re here. Today, I’m telling you about Mitzi’s, a spot with a great vibe and terrific sandwiches. You’ll also find some not-so-great news on the scene, plus the results of my tipping survey. Paid subscribers: read on for a link to some premium content just for you.
First, the Not-Great News
I’m sorry to report that Matt Steigerwald has left Wilson’s Farm & Orchard, where he served as culinary director. As you may know, I have such great respect for this chef—his vision and talent are (in my mind) a great part of what makes the restaurants at Wilson’s so perfect for the farm/orchard setting. I’ve enjoyed his work in Iowa City, and I was greatly looking forward to enjoying his culinary stewardship in the new Cumming location.
Here’s a statement from Steigerwald:
“After 7 great years with Wilson’s—opening the Iowa City restaurant and now the long-awaited Des Moines property—I’ve decided to pare back a bit and put my energy elsewhere. Though I will no longer be an official part of the team at Wilson’s I look forward to supporting the entire Wilson’s Ciderhouse team, in Iowa City and Des Moines, in anyway that I can.”
Believe you me, readers, I’m keeping a close eye on what Steigerwald is doing next, and you’ll be the first to know when I know. Meanwhile, I’ll continue to support Wilson’s Farm + Orchard, because I love what they’re doing. But I can’t say I’m not disappointed.
Now, onto some better news:
Mitzi’s—Yes!
Mitzi’s Kitchen & Cocktails
206 5th Street, West Des Moines
515-528-2075
Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday; Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.;
Saturday: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday: 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Recently, I asked on my Facebook page, “If you could once again order one dish from a now-closed Des Moines restaurant, what would it be?” A total of 355 people responded.
A few of them mentioned the original Tim Flanagan’s restaurant (the one that took over Maxie’s when Maxie’s moved out west). I loved that neighborhood spot, especially the way the kitchen thought out every single detail in a sandwich, from choices of peppers (sweet or hot) on the heavenly grilled tenderloin to the way they chose just the right bun or roll for every sandwich and toasted it to perfection.
These sound like small things—but you would not believe how many sandwich wrecks I endured during 15 years of reviewing, from synthetic-tasting turkey, to a meatball sandwich on bread so tough you could neither gnaw into it or saw through it with knife and fork.
As we were eating our delightfully well-built sandwiches at Mitzi’s, I mentioned that they reminded me of Flanagan’s sandwiches. Dave said, “I was just thinking the same thing!”
Don’t get me wrong: Mitzi’s is a completely different restaurant from Flanagan’s. But there seemed to be a shared culinary vision in the care they took in casual bar-grill food.
Who/What? I know. I didn’t know about Mitzi’s either, until my pal Andy Lyons suggested we meet there for lunch (it was his inaugural visit there, too). Seems Mitzi’s opened as a “sausage eatery” during the pandemic; since then, sausage seems to have taken a lesser role on the menu. The venue is owned by Sarah Cattoor and Ryan Greening, who own breakfast/brunch eatery Eggs and Jam as well as the bar Cattoor’s on Grand.
While I haven’t been to the other two venues, I was utterly charmed by Mitzi’s. Here’s why
Seems They Appreciate the Late 70s as Much as I Do.
An easygoing late-70s (creeping into early 80s) vibe envelopes you the minute you slide into one of the booths. This is thanks, in part, to the decor that taps into the era, with what feels more genuine than kitschy. (Unless I’m not in on the joke.) Concert posters, groovy wallpaper, string bulbs, and graffiti-influenced art all feel like an ode to CBGB and the overall Punk era (but thankfully, in a way that’s less grubby and hard-edged).
The Great Vibe Is Not Just About the Decor
The people I encountered here are so nice. Our lunchtime server took it extremely well when we (sort of) jokingly crabbed about there being no Chicago Dogs on the menu (they were on the website’s menu, and I’d been dreaming about one all week long!). I don’t know what kind of magic she worked, but she gave us a simultaneous “yes I care,” and “yes, you’ll get over it” message that immediately reassured us.
The evening dude served as both bartender and waiter—no problem on the slow night of our visit. The super-nice guy answered all our questions (including some hard ones) with expertise and enthusiasm.
Winner, Winner, Chicken … Sandwich
Three out of four sandwiches across two visits made us very, very happy. The fourth left us satisfied enough, but somewhat scratching our heads.
The out-and-out winner was the hand-breaded chicken breast sandwich; it arrived extra-crunchy on the outside and nicely tender on the inside, with an admirable Sriracha aioli on a nicely toasty potato bun. You also can’t go wrong with the burger: smash-style, mustard-grilled and served with ample dill pickle (shaved lengthwise from a whole pickle—not those thin and stingy dill chips). When it comes to burgers, I’m a fool for a good “special sauce” and their homemade Thousand Island-esque sauce made me weak in the knees.
On my first visit, Andy eyed the pastrami, but he just couldn’t do it. I get it. How much lousy pastrami have we all endured? Won’t get fooled again.
On our second visit (sans Andy), I asked our waiter if “pastrami snobs” liked the pastrami here. While he didn’t answer the question directly (it is a tall order), he did say that the pastrami was shaved fresh daily, and that most people liked the sandwich.
He had me at “shaved fresh daily.” Look, I’m not claiming it will take you back to your favorite deli in Brooklyn, but I can’t think of anywhere around here that does pastrami better. It was tender and succulent, with an ever-so-slight smoke and spice and a bit of flab in all the right ways. Nicely toasted French roll, too.
The breaded pork tenderloin was good; the pork was tender but not hand breaded. Why, we wondered, can they do such a great job hand-breading the chicken sandwich, and not give the same love to the tenderloin? I’m stickin’ with the chicken.
The thick, plank-y fries were heavenly—as hot and crisp as you want them, and they take potato salad as seriously as everything else. The soup? Well, I don’t love soups that are so thick you can stand a spoon in them, but I’m guessing a lot of people do.
Bottom line: I’ve been looking for some bar-grill/hangouts for that casual any-night meal, and Mitzi’s will definitely come to mind when I’m seeking for a low-key place with high standards.
The Results of My Tipping Survey
Remember my tipping survey a couple weeks ago? I asked if people were “no fault tippers” (who unfailingly tip a set amount no matter how subpar the service) or if service was factored into how much they tipped. Here are the results.
Frankly, I was surprised. For the record, I’m with the majority here—while it’s rare that service is so subpar that I’m compelled to diminish the tip, on occasion, I have done so. One of these days, I’ll explain my thinking. (It deserves its own column.)
Premium Content for Paid Subscribers Only
Last Saturday at around 4 p.m., I looked at online to see which restaurants still had tables available (I focused on 15 fine-dining and/or buzzy restaurants). Then, at around 6 p.m., I called all the booked-up restaurants to inquire about their walk-in policy that night.
It was interesting to see who was booked solid, and if walk-ins would be accommodated. Inadvertently, the pursuit also gave me some insight into the expertise/graciousness of each venue’s phone staff. No, I don’t name the outlying subpar, but I do highlight those restaurants that had exceedingly committed pros answering their phone (which bodes well for restaurant overall, don’t you think?).
Paid subscribers—the article can be accessed here.
Everyone: Thanks for reading. And please like, comment, share, and consider subscribing.
The Iowa Writers’ Collaborative
I’m proud to be part of the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative, which brings you news, views, and insights from across the state. This week, I’d like to highlight Beth Hoffman from In the Dirt. Beth raises grass-finished beef, and she’s also pioneering agritourism in the area with her farmouse building, where she does cooking classes and writers’ retreats.
Good heavens—what snares she ran into when she tried to insure it. The irony? As she wrote:
“If we were trying to insure our corn or soybean crop, we would not only be able to find companies to cover us, the cost of our premiums would mostly be paid by you, the American taxpayer.”
Read her piece, and you’ll appreciate just how much she’s up against in trying to do something sustainable and life-enhancing in rural Iowa.
Wini: I enjoyed your review of Mitzi’s. Occasionally, I organize a lunch outing with a group of friends, usually a couple of times a month. We have been trying different lunch places over the last several years, nothing fancy. Five of us (all guys) are going to Mitzi’s Wednesday. Will let you know how it goes.