Is It Time to Go Back to Harbinger?

This much-praised restaurant is a top spot for the tasting-menu set. But two previous visits left me underwhelmed. How did the most recent foray go? You know I'll tell you.

I’m well aware that even the best restaurants can have an off night. But how many missteps do you overlook before a place—particularly one of our more celebrated, higher-ticket destinations—begins to…