Is This Paris? No, It's Omaha.

Yes, I exaggerate, but great pleasures await in this utterly transformed city—perfect for an autumn getaway. While you're at it, take in the Loess Hills and check out Sioux Falls. (Yes, Sioux Falls).

Two years ago, I wrote about five restaurants in Omaha that are unlike any in Des Moines. Last week, I revisited and found two more restaurants that I absolutely loved.

Yet what makes Omaha equally remarkable right now is simply Omaha itself. Really—if you have not been to this city since 2023, it’s a must-go destination. The downtown/riverfront area has been transformed. It’s all about the kind of civic joy that American cities are finally reclaiming.

This fall is the moment to go: enjoy great dining. Then, take in the city’s beauty right up against the Missouri river while the gentle fall air and autumn colors linger. Dip back over the border for a foray into the Loess Hills if you have an extra stretch of time. And if your restlessness compels you further, the charming city of Sioux Falls waits just two and a half hours north, if you go the fast way (I-29). You can also take it slow and weave back through more of those strange, sloping hills along the way.

Here are highlights depending on how much time you have.

Two days? Stick to Omaha.

If you’ve only got two days, make them count in Omaha. Start in the Old Market—one of the first and still the most appealing warehouse districts within a day’s drive of Des Moines, where the spread-out, low-lying brick buildings instantly signal you’ve stepped into the West. But these days, the new draw is spending time in and around …

The Leahy Mall

Omaha’s Leahy Mall has an America’s-West-meets … Paris kind of feel. Do I exaggerate? Yes, perhaps, a bit. One shouldn’t compare any place to Paris (or any place to any place else, for that matter), but I can’t help but think that the landscape architects and designers had the Jardins du Luxembourg in mind when they pulled this all together. I mean, these chairs, right?

At left: Chairs in the Jardins du Luxembourg, Paris. At right: Chairs in the Jardins du Omaha (aka the Leahy Mall). I think someone was channeling the kind of civic beauty you find in the great cities of the world, and I think they hit their mark. Paris photo credit: By Janine Sprout - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=142996894. All other photos by me.

But of course, no great place achieves greatness by imitating another great place. Rather, this sweeping outdoor promenade/mall, which runs perpendicular to the Missouri river, is utterly itself, with a lovely canal running through it, along with everything from a playground and a grassy hill for kids to roll down, a climbing-water spray-ground, ping-pong tables, hammocks, bench-swings, public art, and plenty of green spaces for stretching out.

The walkway of the Leahy Mall leads to the riverwalk of the Heartland of America Park. Which then leads to the Lewis and Clark Landing. (I didn't take photos of the amazing Discovery Playground there, as it was crawling with kids, and I wanted to respect their privacy).

At the end of the Leahy Mall, keep walking! The Heartland of America Park and the entire riverwalk area is a delight, with a skate-ribbon, a pond, and a pier extending to the Missouri. But wait—there’s more. The Lewis and Clark Landing, a short walk north along the river, has the most imaginative playground I’ve ever seen. Forget the Omaha Zoo! Take your kids here and let them be the fun-monkeys that they are.

Dining Highlights

Here are two great new-to-me restaurants I discovered this visit:

Brother Sebastian’s Steakhouse and Winery

1350 S 119th St.; Phone reservations only: (402) 330-0300.

You’ll hear Gregorian chants from the parking lot. (Fortunately, inside, the music leans more towards mid-century lounge crooners.)

If you’ve forgotten what truly great prime rib tastes like—or never felt the easy grace of an old-school supper club team—this worth-the-drive outpost in a western suburb will set you straight.

A recorded loop of Gregorian chants greets you from the parking lot; inside, servers dressed in faux-monk attire cheerfully attend to the tables, all of which are set into cozy nooks and crannies. The scene could veer into kitsch, but its origins are sincere—the venue hails from the themed-restaurant heyday of the ’70s (remember Des Moines’ own medieval Draw Bridge?).

I just love the nook and crannies at Brother Sebastian's. Snag a booth if you can (they're on a first-come/first-served basis, but there a loads of them throughout the restaurant). And oh yes, that's a 70s-style salad bar. Try the sweet red-onion dressing on some fresh spinach (with trimmings) and top it off with a little ranch. Yum (in a 70s way, of course!).

The prime rib? Perfectly marbled, deeply juicy, and served with a tiny candlelit pot of jus to keep every bite hot, plus two kinds of horseradish. I loved every minute so much that on the drive back to our hotel, I longingly thought about how nice it would be to live in one of the surrounding midcentury ranch houses nearby so I could visit more often.

Yoshitomo

6011 Maple St, Omaha; (402) 916-5872.

Yoshitomo's interior. Wagyu beef that reminded me of sushi in all the most delicate ways. And how striking to see the fish on display in the dining room.

On the other hand, if you want the kind of inventive, precise cooking that earns James Beard nods, Omaha’s 2025 nominee delivers. Think yellowtail on a tamari/brown-butter-soaked sourdough pillow. Or a soft-shell crab roll in Viet-Cajun shrimp butter—delicate, crunchy, fresh, and flavor-charged all at once. Every dish was bold and exacting, and as I dined here, I couldn’t help but think of all the restaurants I’ve been to that aspire to this level of cooking. What a joy when they pull it off. Bonus: For as phenomenal as the food is here, the service was refreshingly easygoing.

Do not miss the Kumo—a roll of soft-shell crab with cucumber and spinach on a bed of Vietnamese-Cajun butter.

Tip: Yoshitomo is in the Benson neighborhood—a historic area that’s now full of nightspots, quirky shops, and even a boutique that celebrates, um, adult romance. Definitely worth a stroll if you’re in the mood for something way off the beaten path.

Other Restaurants I Recommend:

• M’s Pub: The food leans pubby, simple, and straightforward, and the vibe is shot through with warmth. Paired with the Old Market’s brick-and-glow charm, it’s exactly where you want to land if you arrive into town late and need something good without a fuss.

• Au Courant: Two years ago, I was smitten (read my write-up here). This year, I erred in not booking far enough in advance, and so missed my chance to dine there again. Still, that in itself is a promising sign of the restaurant’s sustained quality and reputation.

Omaha’s Boiler Room Restaurant. A particularly good choice if you want high-end food without leaving the Old Market area.

• The Boiler Room (1110 Jones St.; 402-916-9274): This is a high-ticket spot is on par with other James Beard-nominated spots, where polished service meets intricately composed plates. The difference is that here, the cooking leans fuller, richer, and more sustaining than you often find at highly detailed, chef-driven, seasonally focused restaurants. (Read between the lines: Don’t over-order here as we too often do!)

Three days? Do Omaha, but Go to the Loess Hills for a Day

27792 Ski Hill Loop, Honey Creek, IA; pottconservation.com.

The Loess Hills from the Hitchcock Nature Center.

As I’ve written before, I’ve always found the lush, gently sloping Loess Hills compelling, but trying to figure out where to go/what to see can be daunting. They stretch 200 miles long and up to 15 miles wide.

Fortunately, I’ve pinpointed a great place to start—and frankly, I’ve yet to find anything that’s better than this area. Check it out—it’s great for a morning hike and a picnic.

Four Days? What the Heck! Check Out Sioux Falls

Ooops! This is getting too long for one email! So, I’m going to send a bonus missive in a day or two. I’ll tell you all about Sioux Falls (and two James Beard-nominated spots), and why you might want to extend your trip there—if you have time and a bit of wanderlust. Stay tuned!

And remember: my travel stories aren’t about me—they’re about you and what I think you’ll enjoy. For this Substack, I never take freebies and always dine undercover, so I get the real experience. This kind of reporting takes time and money. If you value it, your support keeps it alive. Thank you.