Lucca's Got It Figured Out

And why dinner here is unlike just about any other place in Des Moines.

Steve Logsdon, chef-owner of Lucca, with longtime front-of-house pro Marcela Alvarado.

Lucca
420 E. Locust St.; 515-243-1115; luccadsm.net.
Lunch (not reviewed here): Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Dinner: Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, 5 p.m. to close.

I recently read a somewhat alarming article in the New York Times written by San Francisco-bas…