Review of the Northwestern Steakhouse
This Mason City gem offered more than a fine steak and a lovely walleye—it was a masterclass in casual hospitality.
Today, I’m here to tell you about a beloved little steakhouse in Mason City. But first, some news:
• Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse (Jordan Creek) will start serving lunch on July 9. Here’s the menu. I’ll be heading there myself to check it out, and I’ll report back.
• Appearances: My memoir, Love Is My Favorite Flavor: A Midwestern Dining Critic Tells All has just been published. I’ll be doing a few events around town, and I’ve posted them here.
• Summer is speeding by—time to get that weekend getaway in before it’s over. Below, you’ll find links to a few pieces on Wini’s Food Stories that might help you plan.
• Taking a longer trip?: I just posted my roundup of favorite hotel rooms with kitchens. Plus, I’ll share the one chain-fare dinner that I actually enjoy on the road (in a pinch).
Now, on to today’s column…
Review of the Northwestern Steakhouse
304 16th St. NW; Mason City
641-423-5075
Open: Monday through Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday
Entrees range from $21.95 to $39.95. Wines by the glass $6 to $8.
If Cafe Mir in Fertile, Iowa, is for culinary travelers, the Northwestern Steakhouse in nearby Mason City is for time travelers. Established in 1920, in what looks like an old brick corner-grocery store, the Northwestern is vintage in all the right ways.
And to be clear, when I say “vintage,” I’m not talking mid-century; this isn’t a classic supper club or Jesse’s Embers kind of spot. Rather, the restaurant dates back to 1920, when founders Maduras and Tony Papouchis slung 25¢ T-bone steaks (along with bootlegged basement booze) to laborers in the neighborhood.
Today, the place is run by Tony Papouchis’s son and his wife, Bill and Ann Papouchis, who took on full ownership in 1992.
The Look
Inside, it’s all about stamped-tin ceilings, wood floors, cozy wooden booths, and vinyl tablecloths under glass. There’s a certain charm in the workaday way the drink menus appear under the glass coverings on the tables. Plus, it’s almost worth driving to Mason City just to dine at a place that serves $6 wines by the glass.
Retro Food in All the Right Ways
All entrees come with a salad, in this case, ultra-crisp iceberg lettuce with an olive, a boiled egg quarter, a super-garlicky pickle, pepperoncini, herbed feta, and a tomato. And if you unequivocally turn your nose up at iceberg lettuce, you night not appreciate the overall retro appeal of the Northwestern. In my book, crisp, cold iceberg lettuce has its place, especially if it tastes torn in-house (as it did here) and not poured from a bag. The fine ranch dressing is homemade, btw.
It’s been a long time since I’ve had the kind of bread you’ll find here. The soft, airy white loaf with a sesame seed crust proved fresh and satisfying.
The Northwestern is famous for their steaks, which are seasoned with a signature blend of subtly present Greek seasonings—a kind of fragrant extra that just adds a certain distinction to the good-quality beef.
We also loved the broiled walleye. The generous portion of delicately sweet, glistening and flaky fish arrived with a perk of drawn butter. We split both our entrees between us, allowing us to have our own kind of Midwestern surf-and-turf.
I greatly appreciate the choice of sides: sure, you can get a baked potato or fries, but they have signature offerings, too: buttery, cheese-topped spaghetti and a rich rice dish with a pleasant herb sauce and cheese.
A Masterclass in Casual Service
I’m pretty sure the woman who answered the phone and later seated us was owner Ann Papouchis herself. All night, she welcomed guests while keeping an eagle eye on the room. A few minutes after we were seated, she noticed our server was tied up with a large table, so she took our drink order and gave us an update. Next time you’re in a place where the server is stretched thin with no backup in sight, remember that it doesn’t have to be that way.
Our young server was a true charmer—she guided us through the menu with her favorites, and when we didn’t order the side she likes best, she brought it to us as a bonus. “You have to try our rice! It’s the perfect side to the walleye,” she said. When one of our cheap glasses of wine tasted subpar (or maybe even turned), she cheerfully brought us a taste of another to ensure we liked the alternative pick.
With all this and a cheerful goodbye, it’s no wonder that the Northwestern has thrived for over a century.
About Reservations: Know Before You Go
They only take reservations starting at 4:30 p.m. on the day of your visit. That can be a bit disconcerting if you’re driving up from Des Moines. The good news is that if you do have to wait for a table, they’ve recently opened the upper floor with a bar and a pleasant waiting area.
Incidentally, on a Friday night, the first three times we tried to call, we got a busy signal, but the fourth time was a charm. I found it all worth the wee bit of rigmarole.
P.S.: If you’re driving from Des Moines, you’ll want to stay overnight, possibly in Mason City. In the past, I’ve enjoyed staying at the Historic Park Inn, though there are many other options in both Clear Lake and Mason City. And if you’re spending a couple nights, I highly recommend dining at Cafe Mir on one of the nights of your stay.
Nearby Destinations for a Quick Getaway:
• 36 Hours in Iowa City (including a visit to what I think might be the best restaurant in Iowa)
• Good Eats and Great Fun in Clear Lake, Iowa
• Why a Visit to Omaha Is Better Than Ever!
And if you’re still planning a more extended summer vacation, check out The Minnesota North Shore, Itasca State Park, and Door County.
Remember the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative!
Next time you’ve mindlessly scrolled through way too much dumb stuff on social media (yes, I do it, too!), give the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative a look. You’ll find professional writers from all over the state sharing news, views, and insights on everything from politics to living well.
Today, I’d like to highlight Macey Shofroth from The Midwest Creative. She highlights the many ways artists and other creatives enrich our lives throughout the state.
This is an exceptionally well-written and well-considered review. The Northwestern Steak House in Mason City is my favorite restaurant in Iowa. Appreciate how Wini includes other nuggets in her columns in addition to the main feature review. She puts the work in!
they sound confident and generous, thanks for sharing