Thank you for featuring Holdeman Farms (I've often used the whole capons as a substitute for Thanksgiving turkey) and The Good Butcher. I no longer buy chicken or pork from industrial "farms" for a number of reasons, and cannot understand why locals who have access to these fantastic products don't skip the big box stores' meat and poultry aisles.
My mother often roasted whole capons when there were fewer at the table. It’s a great bird! And did you know that if you get a whole capons in the U.S., chances are, it comes from Holdeman’s? They supply a lot of the capons in the U.S.
Mom told me that a capon was a young bird that had its testicles cut off. Dad said they can be chemically done too and never buy one. For me at the time, I had no idea that roosters had those parts, a real eye opener for a city kid . I have never been exactly able to look at the bird exactly, trying to see and wonder how they could do the snip. The chemical ones, the birds are fed something and that goes in the meat.
Yup. Every time I’ve written about capons, I’ve had a hard time wording exactly what one is. I mean, there’s just no nice way to say it, is there? I supposed we could use the term “neutered” instead of “castrated.” The chicken farmer I talked to uses the term “caponized” to describe the process, which I think should become part of our standard lexicon!
Hi Wini. Right you are as usual. And thanks to Ross Daniels for identifying an echo chamber. A once-special treat, early editions of Joy included a recipe for mock or city chicken including veal as an economical substitute for the yardbird! The difference between commodity poultry and what can be had from specialty meat markets is marked and will spoil ya. We could geek out on air-chilled, or the USDA standard for "fresh," or the relative advantages of halal and kosher but one approach traditional in Chinese foodways is that animal proteins, when used, serve as a fillip the other ingredients. Seein' as it's wash day, I'm havin' red beans and rice. Pass the pepper sauce, please!
I'm a fair hand around the stove, Wini, and your kind words are deeply appreciated. Quick story from the deli at Ingerdahls. Two women ordered fried chicken and were asked what sides. When they got a couple I commented, "One shy of 'meat and three.'" They laughed merrily so I followed, "Y'all thought I'm just another whitey.'" They roared at that!
Big "whew," Wini! Almost self-censored my comment and I still think it's borderline tasteless. But truly it was a jolly moment; the counter guy and some waiting in line smiled too. My three–if my cred is in anyway doubted is–collard greens, butterbeans, and mac and cheese. If dirty rice is offered I'll take it twice but it better be rife with giblets!
I know. That was a real revelation to me. If I MUST buy supermarket chicken, I get “Smart Chicken,” which is air-chilled. And I get bone-in, skin-on thighs. It’s not by any means Bell & Evans, but it’s better than the usual supermarket stuff.
Yes, yes, 1000 times yes. This article preaches to the fully converted chicken aficionados that we are. Few things satisfy our souls more than a properly roasted chicken over onions, carrots, and a few fingerlings drizzled with schmaltz. We so miss the capons from Holdeman and the chickens from the Griffeon's in Ankeny. I think it's Amy's dream to roast a Bresse chicken.
I’m going to get some of this chicken this week! And that 200F temp for roasting makes me remember that the best smoked chicken I ever had made me stick my head back into the kitchen at a restaurant, asking for the secret. Instead of throwing a spoon at me, the cook confided that smoking it slow and low, to 200F, was the magic.
I'll second that on the Bell & Evans, which I purchased regularly from the Willy St. Co-op when I lived in the Madison area. I also had a farmer friend who actually sold half-chickens, which was great for a singleton like me (though I'll buy an occasional whole chicken). Since I was a kid my family teased me on how much I loved chicken ("Do NOT order chicken," my mom once said when she took us to a steakhouse). It's one thing to buy chicken to throw in to a soup or whatever, it's entirely different to just season it and bake and I'd only do that with Bell & Evans and not the grocery store stuff. Happy to know where I can find it and was wondering about the brand I see at Gateway.
It’s great—and the airline cut is super! Though I do prefer dark meat, really. Nice thing is if you get them to break down the whole bird, I can get the dark meat, and my white-meat-loving guests can get the airline breasts.
Chicken about chicken? naw, if it is cooked we might have a winner. I had chicken schnitzel at the Ronneburg in Amana and it was delicious although the wait staff didn't seem amused when I asked what part of the chicken was the schnitzel. The three times I have been to Basic Bird. Korean chicken is supposed to be crispy. Neither time was it even close. I described it as wet, soggy, hacked with bone and tendon showing. Pouring a sauce over it doesn't make it Korean chicken. It is supposed to be crispy. Oh it resembles the short term in Des Moines, Church's chicken, batter deep fried, re battered and deep fried. Never got the chance. Raising Caine, Slim Chicken's and now Mc Donalds, strips of chicken and dipping sauce is the only merits. Sadly people have trouble with chicken. Yeah the Chicken is good, that is all they make if you want chicken . Buying it to make at home (my wife does a most excellent fried bird), options are Bare in the store, so perhaps I can ask a trip to Amana for the schnitzel. Yeah it is tough. NO I won't eat Chick Fil-a,
I know! I can remember when everyone bought whole chickens and our moms had to cut them up! I don’t miss having to always cut them up, but I would like a whole bird once in a while to roast. A good one, that is.
Thank you for featuring Holdeman Farms (I've often used the whole capons as a substitute for Thanksgiving turkey) and The Good Butcher. I no longer buy chicken or pork from industrial "farms" for a number of reasons, and cannot understand why locals who have access to these fantastic products don't skip the big box stores' meat and poultry aisles.
My mother often roasted whole capons when there were fewer at the table. It’s a great bird! And did you know that if you get a whole capons in the U.S., chances are, it comes from Holdeman’s? They supply a lot of the capons in the U.S.
Mom told me that a capon was a young bird that had its testicles cut off. Dad said they can be chemically done too and never buy one. For me at the time, I had no idea that roosters had those parts, a real eye opener for a city kid . I have never been exactly able to look at the bird exactly, trying to see and wonder how they could do the snip. The chemical ones, the birds are fed something and that goes in the meat.
Yup. Every time I’ve written about capons, I’ve had a hard time wording exactly what one is. I mean, there’s just no nice way to say it, is there? I supposed we could use the term “neutered” instead of “castrated.” The chicken farmer I talked to uses the term “caponized” to describe the process, which I think should become part of our standard lexicon!
this is so fascinating! thanks for sharing
I like doing deep dives, and I’ll continue to do them as long as people continue reading! Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed it.
Hi Wini. Right you are as usual. And thanks to Ross Daniels for identifying an echo chamber. A once-special treat, early editions of Joy included a recipe for mock or city chicken including veal as an economical substitute for the yardbird! The difference between commodity poultry and what can be had from specialty meat markets is marked and will spoil ya. We could geek out on air-chilled, or the USDA standard for "fresh," or the relative advantages of halal and kosher but one approach traditional in Chinese foodways is that animal proteins, when used, serve as a fillip the other ingredients. Seein' as it's wash day, I'm havin' red beans and rice. Pass the pepper sauce, please!
I bet you cook them up just right, Chap!
I'm a fair hand around the stove, Wini, and your kind words are deeply appreciated. Quick story from the deli at Ingerdahls. Two women ordered fried chicken and were asked what sides. When they got a couple I commented, "One shy of 'meat and three.'" They laughed merrily so I followed, "Y'all thought I'm just another whitey.'" They roared at that!
Big "whew," Wini! Almost self-censored my comment and I still think it's borderline tasteless. But truly it was a jolly moment; the counter guy and some waiting in line smiled too. My three–if my cred is in anyway doubted is–collard greens, butterbeans, and mac and cheese. If dirty rice is offered I'll take it twice but it better be rife with giblets!
a good read, when you mention the soaking in the salty water puts the flavor into perspective. 😒
I know. That was a real revelation to me. If I MUST buy supermarket chicken, I get “Smart Chicken,” which is air-chilled. And I get bone-in, skin-on thighs. It’s not by any means Bell & Evans, but it’s better than the usual supermarket stuff.
Love the capon at Iowa Food Coop!
It really is something wonderful.
Yes, yes, 1000 times yes. This article preaches to the fully converted chicken aficionados that we are. Few things satisfy our souls more than a properly roasted chicken over onions, carrots, and a few fingerlings drizzled with schmaltz. We so miss the capons from Holdeman and the chickens from the Griffeon's in Ankeny. I think it's Amy's dream to roast a Bresse chicken.
We FELT this post.
Ha! I thought I might hear from you, knowing how much you love a good roast chicken!
I'm comfortable with who I am. 😀
I’m going to get some of this chicken this week! And that 200F temp for roasting makes me remember that the best smoked chicken I ever had made me stick my head back into the kitchen at a restaurant, asking for the secret. Instead of throwing a spoon at me, the cook confided that smoking it slow and low, to 200F, was the magic.
I’m fascinated by that recipe! I’m going to give it a go myself.
Sign me up for local pasture-raised chicken!!
N.B. TGB's newsletter sign up page is busted at the moment.
Thanks for the heads up—I let Calvin know.
I'll second that on the Bell & Evans, which I purchased regularly from the Willy St. Co-op when I lived in the Madison area. I also had a farmer friend who actually sold half-chickens, which was great for a singleton like me (though I'll buy an occasional whole chicken). Since I was a kid my family teased me on how much I loved chicken ("Do NOT order chicken," my mom once said when she took us to a steakhouse). It's one thing to buy chicken to throw in to a soup or whatever, it's entirely different to just season it and bake and I'd only do that with Bell & Evans and not the grocery store stuff. Happy to know where I can find it and was wondering about the brand I see at Gateway.
Also, as far as the expense: Buying really good chicken is way less expensive than buying really good beef/pork/buffalo etc.
You got that right!
It’s great—and the airline cut is super! Though I do prefer dark meat, really. Nice thing is if you get them to break down the whole bird, I can get the dark meat, and my white-meat-loving guests can get the airline breasts.
Does anyone know of a source in the Quad-City area?
Gosh, I wish I did. I don’t get to those parts often.
Chicken about chicken? naw, if it is cooked we might have a winner. I had chicken schnitzel at the Ronneburg in Amana and it was delicious although the wait staff didn't seem amused when I asked what part of the chicken was the schnitzel. The three times I have been to Basic Bird. Korean chicken is supposed to be crispy. Neither time was it even close. I described it as wet, soggy, hacked with bone and tendon showing. Pouring a sauce over it doesn't make it Korean chicken. It is supposed to be crispy. Oh it resembles the short term in Des Moines, Church's chicken, batter deep fried, re battered and deep fried. Never got the chance. Raising Caine, Slim Chicken's and now Mc Donalds, strips of chicken and dipping sauce is the only merits. Sadly people have trouble with chicken. Yeah the Chicken is good, that is all they make if you want chicken . Buying it to make at home (my wife does a most excellent fried bird), options are Bare in the store, so perhaps I can ask a trip to Amana for the schnitzel. Yeah it is tough. NO I won't eat Chick Fil-a,
Bare chicken IS a good option at the supermarket. Thanks for mentioning!
My—you’ve tried a lot of chicken, haven’t you! Good to hear about the schnitzel in the Amanas! Thanks for the report.
It's hard to even buy a whole chicken in this country anymore. And there's hardly any money to be saved by buying one.
I know! I can remember when everyone bought whole chickens and our moms had to cut them up! I don’t miss having to always cut them up, but I would like a whole bird once in a while to roast. A good one, that is.