Could this be Iowa's most genuine getaway? It may have my vote!

Have you been to Keosauqua’s Hotel Manning lately? This 1899 riverfront inn has been restored, but with its rugged charm intact. Step into its history and explore the nearby state park and villages.

I’m finding that my nearby travel stories are among the most liked, read, and shared pieces I write — and I’m so glad you’re into them. I love traveling “near and deep” just as much as far and wide, especially when I can uncover what makes a place entirely itself—and like nowhere else in the world.

Here’s another singular destination I’ve recently (re)discovered: The Hotel Manning and the nearby Villages of Van Buren, down in the southeast corner of Iowa.

P.S.: If you want more travel stories that uncover a genuine sense of place, please help me grow this newsletter. Like, comment, share, or (best of all) subscribe! Thank you.

The Hotel Manning is the reason you came …

The Hotel Manning
100 Van Buren St, Keosauqua, IA
(319) 293-3232; hotelmanning.com

Thankfully, the Manning is neither prim nor overly polished. It still offers rugged, characterful charm of the Victorian-era frontier. What this photo doesn’t show is how close it is to the Des Moines River, which adds to the sense of place and history.

The one and only previous time I’ve stayed in this historic hotel in Keosauqua was in 1996. Mr. Sportcoat and I went there for a little getaway, and while I enjoyed it in the way I enjoy all historic hotels, the place was rough and tumble—with the focus on rough. Our room was sparse and tiny, with a somewhat grotty shared bathroom down the hall.

Backpacking through Europe in my 20s, I thought nothing of sharing cramped hotel bathrooms with strangers. But that particular thrill expired—without ceremony—sometime around my 30th birthday.

So when Rachelle Chase, a member in our Iowa Writers’ Collaborative, organized our annual retreat and told us we’d gather at the Hotel Manning for the weekend, I thought—Really? I love you guys, but …

What a difference 29 years makes! In her invite to us, Rachelle wrote

“Hotel Manning, located along the Des Moines River, is a historic hotel with a fascinating history. Built in 1899, it is on the National Historic Registry. But what is most interesting to me is that it is 100% community-owned—in 2018, the community got together, pitched in money, and saved and restored the hotel … It is a fun hotel, with 14 rooms in the historic hotel, plus more rooms in adjacent newer additions—some of which face the river. There are also some riverfront cabins. The hotel architecture resembles a steamboat on the outside. Inside, it reminds me of a saloon or a perfect setting for a Western movie.”

—Rachelle Chase, Reading with Rachelle

We tooled on down in mid-April, and I’ll tell you, the hotel’s restoration is remarkable. The place is still shot through with late 19th-century character, but now every room comes with a handsomely tiled private bathroom. These mod-cons don’t detract from old saloon-town spirit one bit; the floors still creak, the lobby ceilings soar, and the walls whisper a hundred-plus years of stories. But now it’s all easier to enjoy.

Our room, plus the view from our room. Note that the upstairs porch is open to everyone, even if you don't have a river-view room.

The rooms in the historic hotel are tidy and handsomely decorated with period furniture without veering into “quaint.” Remember—this is the Victorian era as lived in muddy river towns, not polished seaside resorts; think saloons and card sharks, not parasols and promenades. Spots of the exterior could use a lick of paint here and there; no surprise, as historic hotels constantly demand one thing after another.

• Insider Tip: Note that the historic rooms that feature double beds are small—if you need more space, go for a queen or king. Even those aren’t palatial, but the coziness adds to the charm.

The lobby--with those soaring ceilings and tall, narrow windows. The space became a lovely spot for a spontaneous concert by (from left) Chip Albright, Dave Wolf, and Jason Walsmith. There are other places--indoors and out--that invite people to casually gather.

Caveats aside, I thought it was a gas. While it could work for a romantic weekend, just know that the walls are thin. I’d sooner suggest heading here with a group of friends. I love the way there are little spots here and there to sit and enjoy each other; there’s a pleasant bar in the back and a lovely outdoor courtyard with river views—all perfect for summer.

Bonaparte streetscape--quiet on a rain Sunday morning. One of the shops. And a truly rare find: a small-town downtown grocery store!

… but there’s plenty else to fill the weekend.

Our group gathered on that recent rainy Easter weekend. Not much was happening in the area; however, I poked around and found plenty of potential for at least a two-night stay. Check out:

• Lacey Keosauqua State Park. Less than two miles away from the Hotel Manning, the second-oldest state park in Iowa offers hiking trails, picnic areas, boating, fishing, and cool old structures built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s.

• The Villages of Van Buren are a mix of fading historic towns and livelier artsy clusters. I visited two of the best-known, Bonaparte and Bentonsport. While nothing was open when I passed through, I can imagine whiling away a pleasant summer afternoon poking around. Just be sure to check seasonal hours before you go.

• Milton Creamery: Everyone told me I needed to visit the Milton Creamery, but my timing was off. It’s likely a must-see for those of us who love knowing where great food—like Milton’s Prairie Breeze cheese—comes from.

• American Gothic House: On the way to or from Keosauqua (if coming from Des Moines), you might as well stop at the American Gothic House in Eldon. It truly is iconic and fun to see in real life. A little museum tells you more.

Not everything is beautifully restored as the American Gothic house. You'll see buildings that are worn and weathered. But to me, that adds the weight of history and that true sense of place I seek when I travel. It's all real.

What’s to Eat?

While I did not find any destination restaurants, the places where I dined were solid in their genre. A few pointers:

• The Hotel Manning does not offer regular meal service, but a food truck often rolls into the courtyard on select Thursdays, and occasional special dinners are held in the dining room on scattered dates here and there. The Manning does have a large kitchen, and they catered a well-prepared lunch for our group.

• Try Great Day Café for classic American diner breakfasts and lunches. Also stop in for homemade fudge—you’re on vacation! Note: Closed Sundays.

• Try the Riverbend Pizza and Steakhouse for a very casual lunch or dinner. The pizza and rib-eye were well-prepared and graciously served. When I saw that wines by the glass cost $3, I started looking for real estate in the area with an eye toward moving here.

• I did not get to Bonaparte’s Retreat, but the classic restaurant—housed in an old mill—is a local mainstay.

• If coming from Des Moines, plan a stop—on the way down or back—at Goldie’s Ice Cream Shop in Prairie City for burgers, tenderloins, and other short-order classics, all done the way they should be (but rarely are).

Insider Tip: If you’re traveling with foodies who might just have a cow if they don’t find Maldon salt and micro-greens by noon, suggest that one of them rent one of the Hotel Manning’s cabins with a kitchen. You can all cook something up and dine outdoors at a nearby shelter right on the river. That way, you won’t have to hear them compare the local offerings to their 15-course tasting menu in Copenhagen.

At dusk in springtime: a walk on the foot-bridge between Vernon and Bentonsport on the Des Moines River.

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Read with Rachelle!

Rachelle Chase—who chose the Hotel Manning for our IWC retreat—knows a thing or two about historic towns in Iowa! She’s the author of Creating the Black Utopia of Buxton, Iowa and Lost Buxton. Check out her biweekly column, where she shines a light on overlooked Black history through powerful books and thought-provoking commentary.