Why Door County, WI, Is My New France
History, culture, natural beauty, a lake that feels like an ocean, and a striking sense of terroir make this Midwest destination worth any Des Moinesians' attention.
What gives a destination a “distinct sense of place”? For me, it’s a combination of natural beauty, a deep sense of history, and a food culture that’s truly regional. France has all these things at every turn. And so does Door County.
Consider Door County
Many readers probably know of my love for France. Between 1992 and 2019, I spent long stretches of about 25 summers in this country, mostly in the south, on the shores of the Mediterranean from Menton (near Italy) to Collioure (near Spain). There is no place in the world quite like it.
Then . . . the pandemic hit. For a year, Dave and I went nowhere at all. When we finally felt OK about traveling, we looked at the insanity that air travel had become and we said, “no thanks.” We haven’t flown since.
And that’s just fine, because we’ve discovered something we like just as much. I can’t tell you how Door County came on my radar, but we’ve gone three years in a row, and I just booked my lodgings for 2024.
Why Door County Is Like France
I love Door County in much the same way I love France. But don’t get me wrong: I’m not saying it’s exactly like France. I don’t travel to places hoping that they’re like some other place in the world that I love. That would be absurd. What I do seek from a travel destination is a distinct sense of place—that feeling that you’ve landed somewhere that’s like nowhere else in the world.
What gives a destination a “distinct sense of place”? For me, it’s a combination of natural beauty, a deep sense of history, and a food culture that’s truly regional. France has all these things at every turn. And so does Door County.
It’s Not Just the Lake—It’s the Niagara Escarpment
Door County is surrounded by Lake Michigan—the waters of Green Bay to the west and more of the lake to the east. When you’re standing on the east side of the peninsula, it’s as if you’re looking at the infinity of the beautiful blue sea. The lake is indeed Great.
But what makes Door County more beautiful (in my mind) than many other Great Lakes shorelines is its dramatic coastline of steep cliffs and rugged, rocky outcroppings. This is the result of the Niagara Escarpment, a prominent ridge formed over millions of years by erosion and geological shifts. This geological formation is what gives us (you guessed it) Niagara Falls—and it works its magic on Door County, too.
The four significant State Parks and the numerous county parks make it incredibly easy to take in all this beauty. More on these later.
A Sense of of Place through History and Culture
Beyond geography, Door County offers a great sense of history and culture. A few sites offer glimpses of how Paleo-Indians and Native Americans lived in Door County, and maritime history is on view everywhere—from museums to lighthouses, to shipwrecks and little fishing villages that, alas, aren’t just fishing villages anymore, but still retain pockets of history. Oh, and the maritime present is intact as well—barges and shipping vessels crisscross the vistas quite often.
While tourism is the key industry, it’s a whimsical kind of “Americana” tourism that you rarely see anymore. Once you go north of Sturgeon Bay, you’ll find no chain hotels or franchise restaurants. It’s one-of-a-kind, mom-and-pop spots wherever you turn.
Note: Some towns veer towards “cutesy,” and may not appeal to more rugged types. I quickly tire of the boutique scene myself, but with those four huge state parks, getting back to what makes this county so spectacular is easy. (P.S.: If you want something more rugged and away-from-it-all, check out this article by local writer/editor Christine Riccelli on Itasca State Park in northern Minnesota.)
Terroir—A Sense of Place through Food
If you go to Door County, you’d better like fish and you’d better like cherry pie. Or, let’s just say you’ll enjoy Door County a lot more if you do.
The climate and soil (terroir) are perfect for growing cherries, and cherry orchards are everywhere. The tart and luscious Montmorency cherry reigns in everything from jams and jellies and salsas to turnovers, donuts, fudge, and of course, pies. Oh, and cherry brats, cherry summer sausage, too. For cherry-lovers like me, this is heaven.
Another staple is fish, of course, and the best place I know to taste something with a unmistakable sense of place is to drive up to the tip-top northern point of the peninsula to Charlie’s Smokehouse in the somewhat remote village of Gills Rock. Here, I snagged the best smoked whitefish dip ever. I also purchased whitefish for cooking (I had a cute VRBO nearby).
In summer, you’ll also find farmstands selling fresh, local produce throughout the county, so if you stay in a VRBO or hotel/resort with a kitchen, you can cook your own fresh, local food throughout your stay. One of my favorite farm stands is Wildwood Market, a curious little barracks that once housed itinerant cherry pickers and was later used for German prisoners of war. It has now been transformed into a sweet little farmstand.
Stopping at orchards is a great time, and no, I’m not even going to try to name my favorite cherry pie. Honestly, I haven’t had a bad one yet. Nevertheless, here are two cherry-picked spots for cherry products:
Seaquist Orchard (north of Sister Bay): Great pies, plus jams and jellies and fudge and a few fresh-produce items.
Bea’s Ho-Made Products (Ellison Bay): A more off-the-beaten-path shop for great pie and preserves. A really sweet little spot!
Other than the fish boil (see next point), I don’t eat out much in Door County—I love to cook fresh food in summer! One notable exception: I thoroughly enjoyed the Nightingale Supper Club in Sturgeon Bay for local whitefish and prime rib.
Fish Boil—Yay or Nay?
Fish boils are famed Door County “dinner-and-a-show” kinds of experiences. You basically sit around a cauldron set over a fire and listen to a storyteller/fisherman/cauldron-stoker recount local yore about fishing and food. Soon, he throws the fish in the kettle and stokes the fire with kerosene until it flames up and the kettle boils over (a kind of “ooh-ah” moment). Then, you head to tables and eat boiled fish, boiled onions, boiled potatoes, and coleslaw.
Two of my contributors—Andy Lyons and Jeanne Ambrose—have both expressed their disdain for the famed Door County fish boils. (“Does anyone actually do a fish boil more than once?” said Andy. “The fish tasted like kerosene!” said Jeanne.)
Well, I must have lucked out and found the best fish boil in all of Door County when I went to the one at the Old Post Office restaurant in Ephraim. The fish boiler/showman was great, and we loved the freshness and firmness of the fish—plus the pitcher of butter they serve alongside it. At the Post Office, they also serve beautiful homemade breads as well, and, of course, cherry pie. It was all handsomely and professionally served—without a whit of kerosene essence.
I loved it, and yes, I’ll be doing it again this summer.
Take It Outside
If you’ll be in Door County ten or more days, get a Wisconsin state park pass ($38 for out-of-state residents) so you can go in and out as you please. Otherwise, the daily fees ($11) add up. All state parks offer beaches, hiking, and great views of the sea (oops‚ I mean, the lake—but again, it feels like a sea!).
While I don’t have a favorite state park—I’ll be going to all four of them again this summer—I can offer a few pointers:
• Swimming: Newport State Park Beach is my favorite for swimming, though the Ellison Bay Town Park Beach is calm, pleasant, and especially nice for families.
• The most challenging-but-worth-it hike I’ve taken so far is the Eagle Bluff Trail (2 miles) in Peninsula State Park. You will have to climb over/around some rocks, but it winds along the shore and gets you up close to the those beautiful craggy bluffs in a way most other trails don’t.
• An easy-yet-rewarding hike: The Lynd Point Trail Loop (2.5 miles) in Newport State Park is relatively easy, yet also takes you along a rocky shoreline and offers terrific lake views along the way.
• Secret Picnic Spot: One of my favorite places it picnic is the remote and teeny-tiny Isle View Park. It offers just one picnic table and grill, but a great Lake Michigan overlook. (Take Highway 42 north, turn right on Isle View Road, follow this until the end and there will be a gravel entrance.)
County parks are free and fabulous. My favorite county park is a tie between Cave Point County Park (breathtaking views of irresistibly blue waters and the craggy shoreline) and Door Bluff Headlands County Park (amazing views from atop the bluffs).
Where to Stay?
Which village? Honestly, I can’t imagine being disappointed in any of the towns on the west coast—I’ve tooled through them all and stayed in a few. Thing is, Door County isn’t that big—70 miles long and 18 miles wide, so wherever you stay, you can get anywhere pretty easily.
I will say that Sister Bay seems a bit “posh” in places, which is not the thing I seek in Door County. (It is, however, worth walking around this pretty town!)
That said, here are my own favorites:
• Ephraim: This village offers loads of charm and history and an old Door County vibe. I’ve stayed in both the Ephraim Motel and Somerset Inn, and both were simple, clean, comfy, and run like tight ships by friendly people (Somerset even sent us a Christmas card last year!). I’m headed back to Somerset Inn & Suites this year, mainly because I appreciate the suites with a mini-kitchen (microwave, fridge, and wet bar, but no cooktop) and a wonderful firepit/grilling area. It’s easy to make fresh, easygoing meals when you stay here. I’ve also stayed in the pricey Edgewater Resort, and while it has a pleasant old-time resort feel, I found it not quite worth the price.
• Gills Rock: I stayed in an immensely charming cottage (what old-timers called “housekeeping cottages”). When I got there, the proprietress said, “Welcome to ‘old’ door County,” and I know what she meant. Gills Rock is one of the few places that truly maintains its “fishing village” feel. I loved it, and I thought the cottage was delightful in a very old-school way—complete with breeze billowing the curtains and that nostalgic slap of the screen door. The only reason we didn’t return is that we wanted a place with a pool or at least beach access.
• Sturgeon Bay: I prefer the smaller towns north of this small city, but we did spend an enjoyable stretch of four days here last summer. I’d go back—it’s proximity to Whitefish Dunes and Potawatomi State Parks makes it a good base. The historic downtown is thriving—a great place to walk around—and the working shipyards add a genuine sense of place I always love. We stayed in the well kempt and comfortable Bridgeport Waterfront Resort and will likely do so again this year. We have also stayed in the groovy, retro Motel 57—an inexpensive, old-school motel on the highway that’s very basic but clean and well run (they also sent me a Christmas card after I stayed there!). It’s not for everyone, but I like retro-motels!
One more little tidbit:
If you get shut out of Door County on a busy weekend (things can get booked up!), Kewaunee is a pleasant-enough spot to wait out the crowds for a night or two. The Coho Motel is basic but modern and neat as a pin. You might also stay further south, in the city of Sheboygan. Its seemingly endless pier leading to a lighthouse makes for a magical walk on a hot summer night. Bonus: Sheboygan is near the Kohler-Andre State park, with nice boardwalk trails amidst the dunes.
Of note: When it comes to lake swimming, I’m a big fan of blue water, and the lake surrounding Door County is blue as can be. Further south—in Kewaunee and Sheboygan, for instance—the nearby rivers can make the lake waters a bit more “tannic” (i.e., brownish) near the shore. Allegedly, it’s all natural—but it’s just not quite as pretty. Just sayin’.
Getting There
You can reach Door County in a day—it’s an eight-hour drive. We generally break up the trip with a stop at the Staybridge Suites in Middleton, Wisconsin. This updated-quaint little town lies just outside of Madison and has a lovely town square and historic buildings. We enjoyed terrific pizza and calm alfresco dining at the Villa Dolce.
The Iowa Writers’ Collaborative
I’m proud to be part of the Iowa Writers’ Collaborative, a curated group of independent writers across the state. For an easy way to find out what everyone has written about recently, check out this roundup of last week’s columns.
Door County is one of those special places, especially off season. I have a friend who is a native Sturgeon Bayer (Bayerian?--whatever: he's from there) who introduced me its magic and wonder many years ago. It's been a favorite ever since. I'm hooked on it just like you!
So glad to have found this article! We spend August in Douglas, Michigan and this year adding a few days in Door County. It's my first time to visit and I will follow your tips. We're foodies too and always look for the gems. Thanks for yours.